Here is a quick review of my
work installing the W8JI key click mod.

If you have
not already done so look at these URLs.  The first one is for the FT1000MP; the
second is for the Mark V. Look at both since the boards of the two radios are very similar and you will get a good idea of what you
are looking for when you see the boards.

http://www.w8ji.com/keyclick_mp.htm

http://www.w8ji.com/ft1000mk_v.htm

Also check the  www.va3cr.net
website for additional pictures and notes.

The picture below shows the
small board that I built to hold the capacitors and the pots the
are connected to points on the Filter Board. As I recall I used 470K and
15 pots for R1 and R2 respectively. Unfortunately all of my exact value
information is in my lab notebook in Idaho and
I am in Minnesota
writing this.

The next pictures show getting
to the RF board where you install one capacitor. You remove the covers and look
at the top of the radio. The lower right shows the heat sink and the center is
the fan. The URL references will give step by step instructions which should be
printed out for reference before you begin the process of doing the work.

Remove the fan and set it
alongside the radio..

Then you unclip the plastic
tabs that hold the cables and remove the heat sink mounting screws and flip up
the heat sink to get at the RF board.

Flip the heat sink to the left
side to expose the RF Board..

This is a view of the RF
board.

Remove all of the mounting screws
that hold the board and carefully lift it so you can get at the backside of the
board.

This is what you will see when
you  look
at the backside of the board. . The capacitor on the top right side is the one
I added. Note that the three little chip capacitors (left of the added cap) are
connected together giving a easy point for that connection..
The right side lead is easy to place.

This is a close up of the
location where the capacitor on the RF board goes.

After installing the
capacitor, put the RF Board back and restore the cables and the heat sink so
everything is as it was.

Then turn the radio over and find the IF
board and the Filter Board. The picture below shows the board with the INRAD IF
mod in place. That was removed later and the Roofing filter mod installed in
the same space. This is NOT the board that is involved with the key click mod.

The picture below shows the
filters installed. This is the board that will have the rest of the key click
mod work. The
ribbon cables at the right are the ones you will need to remove so
that you can get at the back of the board.

Next remove the mounting
screws and flip the board. Notice where I put the black
(ground) wire from my little perf board. The
yellow orange wire is the one that goes from the junction of R1 and C1 in the w8JI
URL reference above to the capacitor. Look for the very distinctive trace. The
wires wrap around the edge of the board and go to the perf
board.

The picture below shows where
I mounted the small perf board. I used glass tape
because I had some. I would have preferred to use some small Velcro tabs or
some of the foam sticky tabs, but did not have them on hand. The board is
mounted on the cable bundle that runs along the left side of the  filter board as viewed from the
rear of the radio. This picture was taken so that the front of the radio is at
the bottom and the back of the radio is at the top.

The two pots are conveniently
placed so you can adjust them. Be alert to the fact that the correct setting is
somewhat sharp and may take a bit of back and forth adjusting between the two
pots to get the clicks reduced so that they are at least 30 dB down within +/-
500 Hz of the transmit frequency. Reducing them substantially is an easy
adjustment;  reducing
them the best you can for your radio takes a little more time. However, once the
adjusting is done you will not adjust it again so the time spent is well worth
it.

I used about 70 dB of attenuation
which had input and output impedances of 50 ohms between the output of the MP
and the input to my second receiver (IC-706) to prevent it from being fried. The
output of the MP was sent to minimum which produced a signal of S9+40 dB or so
in the ICOM. If you don’t have attenuators you probably should transmit
into a dummy load and see if you can’t get enough pick up from a small
wire as the antenna of the second receiver. DO NOT CONNECT THE FT1000MP
DIRECTLY TO A SECOND RADIO WITHOUT ATTENUATORS IN SERIES WITH THE CONNECTION !!!!

If there are questions you may
contact me via email.

Tod
Olson, KØTO

[email-masked]